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Atomic Bombing and Restoration of Hiroshima
- From the Standpoint of Urban Organism -
Toshimasa SUGIMOTO
(This is the
excerpt from
English
text
of an
article,
Toshimasa SUGIMOTO, 'Atomic Bombing and Restoration of Hiroshima
- From the standpoint of urban organizm -', in: Norihiko FUKUI,
Hidenobu JINNAI (ed.), "Destruction and Rebirth of Urban
Environment", Sagami Shobou (publisher), Tokyo, 2000,
wtih Japanese and English texts. )
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1. Progress of
Reconstruction of Hiroshima
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At 8:15 am on August 6, 1945, an atomic
bomb exploded in the air at a height of about 580 meters in the
center of the city of Hiroshima. The midtown area of Hiroshima,
the center of the Chugoku region, became a sea of fire in a
moment and the swirling bomb blast demolished the area
completely (Fig. 1). The atomic bomb was used for actual warfare
for the first time in the history of man and never-imagined
large scale destruction of a city became a reality. And on
August 9, the world's second atomic bomb was dropped in the city
of Nagasaki.
The number of victims attacked by heat
rays, bomb blast and additionally by the initial nuclear
radiation is said to have reached a hundred and tens of
thousands. Though there were some modern structures built of
brick and reinforced concrete in some sections, the midtown area
which was covered mostly by wooden buildings was burnt flat by
the intense heat leaving only tiles and pebbles. Coming into
sight were only brick and the reinforced concrete buildings
damaged by fire and the force of the explosion, some of which
were heavily damaged because of their location close to the
hypocenter, and some narrowly maintain their original figure and
are still being used today. It was feared at that time that no
vegetation would grow semi permanently in the midtown section
contaminated by radioactivity. As it was a scientific weapon
called "Atomic Bomb" in which man had no experience, the
situation was such that how the result might turn out was beyond
imagination.
The war came to an end on August 15, 1945.
Thereafter the hypocenter became an object of academic study
with the participation of a survey team from the US armed
forces. On the other hand, reconstruction of the ruined city
area was initiated by those who happened to be out of the city
thereby escaping the tragedy, those who returned from their
place of refuge and those who were repatriated from
battlefields. Buildings disappeared, boundary lines of land
became obscure, landowners were also victims of the disaster and
the urban community were totally disrupted. In such a situation,
rebuilding a city from ruin was very hard to accomplish. Some
built shocks on the land they owned and soon black market stalls
were open in front of Hiroshima train station and illegally
built houses were seen here and there in various parts of the
city.
In 1946, the year following the end of the
war, a "Hiroshima City Reconstruction Planning Map" was drawn
with an attitude toward the functional and modern urban planning
including the rationalization of transportation systems and
arrangement of parks, etc. However, the land readjustment
project for the realization of the said reconstruction program
did not make a smooth progress. And in 1949, after the lapse of
four years since the end of the war, a bill for "The Hiroshima
Peace Memorial City Construction Law" passed the Diet and became
a law and thus the city of Hiroshima, a victim of an atomic air
raid, made a new start.
In 1949, a competition was held for a
design of a peace memorial park extending over the Nakajima
district situated close to the hypocenter and destroyed totally
by the atomic bomb. In the competition, the design by a group of
Kenzo Tange, then an assistant professor at the University of
Tokyo, won the first prize and then used for the construction
work. While the initial design was modified slightly, the
commemoration park, an arrangement of the Le Corbusier style
into the Japanese style, has become a monument symbolizing
internationalization and modernization of the Japanese
communities. That park plan was an axial plan with the vista
focusing on the "Genbaku Dome(Atomic Bomb Memorial Dome)" as the
main axis (Note 1, Fig. 2).
The citizens of Hiroshima, who suffered
from the world's first tragic, atomic bombing, have a stronger
anti-war and peace keeping sentiment than other people for
several decades since the end of the war and additionally have
been challenging a new theme called the anti-nuclear weapon
movement. Besides, their determination that the tragedy of
Hiroshima and Nagasaki must not be repeated has made them repeat
an appeal to the world in the face of frequent crises of the
Third World War. It can be said, therefore, that the
rehabilitation of the city of Hiroshima has been accompanied not
only with the question of reconstruction of a city but also with
a global task.
After the lapse of some fifty years since
the end of the war, when the direct victims of an atomic bomb
are passing away gradually and being replaced by the new
generation, the succession of a peace movement and peace spirits
of Hiroshima have emerged as a new question. Until then, the
position of Hiroshima for anti-nuclear weapons was making a
definite contribution internationally in the situation where the
danger of the Third World War was assuming an aspect of reality
in the picture against the background of a confrontation between
the East and West. With the settlement of a confrontation
between the East and West camps around 1990, however, the
significance of Hiroshima is entering into a new stage. There a
change is taking place from a confrontation between human beings
called the "Ideological Confrontation" to the confrontation
between human beings and environment called the "destruction of
global environment," and a social system, which considers the
earth as one community called "globalization" is being created
through the information media and Hiroshima, under such a
condition of the world, has begun to seek a new theme.
The city of Hiroshima was positioned as
the center of the Chugoku region in the course of building up
the nation of the Meiji era, and with the location of the
headquarters of the Fifth Division of the Japanese army, it was
a city with many military establishments to become a "Military
City" in the early years of Showa. It was also an armed forces
transport base for the South East Asia as a pivot of Japan's
policy of imperialism. As the consequence of a historical
process that the imperialist powers of the world had to collide
with each other over hegemony sooner or later, it was probably
inevitable for a city like Hiroshima to fall a victim in some
form or other. Speaking from a cool viewpoint, the atomic
bombing may have been only an incident in the programmed world
history.
It so happened that Hiroshima became a
symbolic city of the issue that human beings in the period of
the 20th century were confronted with. There will be a need to
reexamine the issues related to Hiroshima from the standpoint of
the history of man. Hiroshima is significant not only as a
symbol of the ordinary antiwar slogans and anti-nuclear weapons
slogans as an individual subject but also as a material to think
of the basis of the existence of mankind toward the 21st
century. It is the very theme that should be considered in the
critical age of global environment when mankind who acquired a
thing called "science," while building up the high level
civilization on the other hand, is injuring itself and even
threatens to wipe out itself of existence with its own
technology on the other.
In the first place, there is a fundamental
question whether urban communities or mankind can survive this
world. Then a new question arises as to what kind of physical
and social system can a city build up and live there in the
ecosystem of the earth and outer space. Questioned now is how a
city should be shaped in the ecological age of the coming 21st
century. By following the Gaia hypothesis that the whole earth
is a single composite living body, it might be well to regard a
city as an "urban organism" by assuming a city to be a
multi-cell organism.
It is the gene that forms an organism,
inherits its character and maintains life, which is kept in the
information storehouse called the "DNA." The gene of animals has
developed gradually since the age of protozoan and the DNA of
man is said to maintain traces of all genes which emerged in the
process of its evolution. The process of development of a city
from a simple hamlet in the primitive ages may be likened to the
evolution of an organism, in which something like an invisible
hypothetical gene can be imagined. Even the modern cities and
towns should be considered to contain the genetic information of
village and urban social systems of all ages including the
genetic information of communities in the primitive ages (Note
2).
In Hiroshima, following the destruction of
infrastructures of a city, a postwar city reconstruction plan
was laid down following the theory of functionalism to make a
framework of a modern city on the one hand and the people opened
black-market stalls and also revived, in the course of nature, a
central shopping district along the main street (old Saigoku
Road) which had been in existence since the birth of the castle
town of Hiroshima during the period from the end of the 16th
century to the beginning of the 17th century on the other hand.
Just like an organism which exercises its restoration function
and regenerates its internal organs when injured, a city also
seems to be regenerated naturally in its original state prior to
the injury in the first place. With the application of such a
concept of the gene of cities and towns, let us consider the way
that the reconstruction of the city of Hiroshima should be on
the basis of a study of the reconstructed Hiroshima prior to the
bombing. One is its market function and streets, which carry a
gene of the fundamentals which keeps the city alive and the
other is Genbaku Dome as a monument of the ruins, which has
generated the so-called new type gene.
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2. Streets as a Living Phenomenon of a
City
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In
the city of Hiroshima, construction of a historic museum is
being planned for exhibition of the past and present of the city
with the conception of providing mental food to consider the way
that city should be. As a site for the construction of the
museum, a plot of the Radioactive Effect Research Laboratory on
Mt. Hiji situated in the east of midtown area is being
considered. However, the said laboratory is an institution
operated jointly by Japan and the USA and because of no progress
of negotiations for relocation of the institution, the plan of
20 years' standing is not yet realized. There is a plan to
reproduce in the said museum a section of old Saigoku Road,
located in the eastern section of Nakajima-Honmachi immediately
before the bombing in the size of the original and the author is
involved in collecting data for the reconstruction of buildings.
Additionally, there is a plan to make a model of the streets of
Shintenchi which prospered as Hiroshima's greatest entertainment
center through the Taisho era until the beginning of the Showa
period. Both of these plans are intended to provide materials
required for reproduction and reaffirmation of the life and
energy of a city.
To begin with, the castle town of Hiroshima was born in 1589 on
a delta where Ohta river flows into the Inland Sea. Terumoto
Mori, who ruled the Chugoku region then, resided in the Koriyama
castle located in the northern mountain district and the castle
town of Yoshida was situated in the basin at the foot of the
mountain. Influenced by his detailed observation of the
construction of a large scale castle town in Osaka by Hideyoshi
Toyotomi in 1583, he began to construct a similar large scale
castle town in Hiroshima. In 1590, the following year, Ieyasu
Tokugawa began to construct the castle town of Edo and large
scale modern castle towns with commercial functions based on
maritime transport were born in Japan one after another around
this period.
In the 16th century, the age of civil strife when the whole land
of Japan became the scene of wars, the technology of city
planning developed rapidly together with the military technology
including the construction of a fortress and the comprehensive
accumulation of these technologies lead to the construction of
these large scale castle towns at the end of the 16th century.
Among them, Hiroshima town planning was a very systematic
exhibiting directly the results of technology employed in those
days. The town is considered to have been modeled after Kyoto,
the ancient capital city, and was designed as a town with a neat
grid of streets, comprising square blocks each having a length
of 60 ken (approx. 120m) on all sides, on the basis of an
azimuth plan corresponding to four-divine directions. Traces of
this street network clearly remain in the present midtown area,
though altered considerably in the process of war damage
rehabilitation. Naturally, different from Kyoto which was built
in the basin where the flatland expands evenly, Hiroshima was
constructed on a delta where streams branch off irregularly with
the gridiron street network distorted at the point abutting on
streams. Such being the case, it was not possible to realize the
ideal form of town planning throughout the district (Fig. 3).
It is said that there were fishing and agrarian villages called
"Five Villages" on the Hiroshima delta prior to the construction
of a castle town. The castle town merged these villages and
called up merchants and craftsmen from various parts of the
Chugoku region. It seems, therefore, that the new town had a
mixture of various elements. It can be said that the modern
programmed town incorporated a gene of the age of fishing and
agrarian villages. Following the Edo period of nearly three
hundred years, the Meiji Restoration saw the vanishment of the
worrier class from the town and the establishment of modern
urban communities having a system of self-government. The urban
organism called "Hiroshima" was rendered the relationships with
nature, a geometrical frame and also a modern reformation, thus
making today's Hiroshima the integration of various genes.
At the beginning, the main street of the castle town of
Hiroshima was the Otemachi street which ran straight to the
south affording an unobstructed view of the inner citadel of
Hiroshima castle. However, with the gradual change of Saigoku
Road, a highway extending east and west, thereby connecting the
eastern part and western part of the coast of the Inland Sea, to
the main highway, today's "Hondori" (main street) shopping
district was formed (Fig. 4). In the highway where buildings
were almost completely wiped out by bombing, a central shopping
district came to life again. The process was quite natural as if
the gene of the shopping district exhibited its regeneration
power (Note 3).
Immediately before the bombing in the early stage of the Showa
period, Nakajima-Honmachi formed a part of the west side of this
Saigoku Road, while Shintenchi (a new world) was formed adjacent
to Horikawa-cho on the west. Each of these districts played a
central role of urban functions but was transformed in the
process of the war damage rehabilitation project.
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(1) Nakajima-Honmachi
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The area where
Nakajima-Honmachi was situated formerly is now occupied by the
Peace Memorial Park and the streets barely show its traces. If
tourists, while visiting the Peace Memorial Park, can experience
the streets of Nakajima- Honmachi reconstructed in the expected
museum and see the contrast between life and death of a town
with their own eyes, they would be filled with deep emotion. The
streets of Nakajima-Honmachi have a history of about 350 years
since the birth of a castle town until the time of the bombing
and used to be a district full of life throughout the Edo period
as a town built along the old Saigoku Road.
The truth is that the island called "Nakajima" where
Nakajima-Honmachi is situated does not follow the rule of the
gridiron street pattern of this 60 ken (approx. 120 meters)
square despite the fact that it cuts into the central part of
the castle town in the form of a wedge. The reason for this is
not known but it is probable that this particular district was
used as a place of preparatory works by workers for building a
castle and castle town and left till later on for town building.
The streets are bent hook shaped and made as to throw intruders
into confusion, with a smaller width of a block as compared with
other districts, thereby making the street network more
complicated intentionally. In Tenjin-machi extending to the
south along the bank of Motoyasu river curving at the eastern
edge of Nakajima-Honmachi, the street is considered to be the
only lengthy curved street in the castle town of Hiroshima with
added complexity (Fig. 5). At the beginning of castle town
planning, it was an ideal geometric plan but the Nakajima
district, which was built a little later, rather seems to have
been constructed with such complicated street networks in a
positive manner as a result of pursuing the functionality of
town defense. While every latter day castle town in Japan tends
to make its street network more complicated intentionally, it
can be inferred that there was a change from the stage of
idealism aiming at the initial clear morphologic order to the
stage of functionalism which resulted in the complicated street
network for the purpose of town defense.
In the town of Nakajima-Honmachi immediately before the bombing
in the early stage of Showa period, traces of changes in the
street network following the Meiji Restoration were contained
(Figs. 6-1, 6-2) (Note 4). During the period of nearly 300 years
of the Edo period, the worrier class demanded discipline of all
towns throughout Japan and townspeople's houses were restricted
to two stories or less and did not allow the people to choose
freely the form of their buildings. Wooden structures must have
been modified to some extent but the street scene is not
considered to have changed significantly. With the arrival of
the Meiji Restoration, the people gained freedom suddenly and a
wooden five-story restaurant, the literally "Five-Story Tower,"
soared to the sky in the midtown of Hiroshima (Fig. 7) (Note 5).
In the area around Nakajima-Honmachi, a "commodity market" was
opened as a new commercial center and movie houses were also
built transforming the district into the shopping center of
Hiroshima in the Meiji era. And in 1907, the Hiroshima Branch of
Sanjushi Bank was built upon the design of Mr. Kingo Tatsuno, a
representative architect of Japan known for his design of the
buildings of Tokyo Station and the head office of the Bank of
Japan. Though the profile of this building was not known, it was
possible to produce the estimated front elevation and ground
plan from two indistinct photos of facade and interior
discovered later on (Figs. 8-1, 8-2) (Note 6). The exterior of
the building was in Western style with the appearance of a brick
building at a glance but it was of the timber framed
construction in reality. The user of the building changed later
to the Sanwa Bank and then to the Hiroshima Branch of the
Industrial Bank of Japan.
Because of the allotment of ground which continue to exist since
the Edo period, the strip-shaped lot with a narrow frontage and
a greater depth has remained unchanged. Where the traditional
townspeople's houses built of wood were preserved, it is assumed
that there was no change at all in the style of town life but
where some of these identical strip-shaped lots were integrated,
slightly larger Western style buildings were placed between
these strip-shaped sites. Thus the streets began to present a
rather confused scenery of a mixture of modernized Western style
buildings with the traditional townspeople's houses. The scenic
disorganization like this is incidental to a transition period
and indicates a process of transition to a modern urban scenery.
On the other hand, Western style buildings, too, were bound by
the traditional strip-shaped plots. The ground of the Hiroshima
Branch of the Sanjushi Bank is said to have a frontage of about
7.2 meters and a depth of about 23 meters, a long strip of land
with a depth about three times the length of a frontage. It was
inevitable to adopt this shape of lot which was not so rational
for a bank building. Entering a bank building, one normally sees
a counter extending in both directions, with a wellhole
operating hall affording comfortably a wide field of vision. In
this building, however, there was no such margin in the width of
the frontage and the counter was extending toward the depth of
the building. In 1929, a three-story reinforced concrete
building of "Taishoya Drapers Store" was constructed (Fig. 9).
In this case, a wall in the shape of a signboard stood up at a
corner lot, with the surface of front walls of the first floor
lined with a series of arched shop windows and the surface of
other walls decorated in the modern textural expression. For the
interior, glass showcases were placed side by side, which hardly
looked like a draper's store. The advent of this draper's store
designed by Kiyoshi Masuda, a noted architect, pointed to the
revolution of apparel culture of the Japanese people on the one
hand and symbolized an energetic process of the evolution of the
streets lined with a row of tile-roofed houses taking in the
modern Western architectural culture.
Incidentally, the building of this "Taishoya Draper's Store"
withstood the damage from the bombing and still exists today
because of its reinforced concrete construction, and with the
modifications, the building has been reused to date as a tourist
information office of the Peace Memorial Park under the name of
"Rest House." Now, it is swayed between the intent of the
municipal government of Hiroshima to dismantle the building
because of deterioration and the voice of the people demanding
its preservation as a monument of atomic bombing. Same as
Genbaku Dome, it is in agony as a monument peculiar to Hiroshima
called the "structure suffered from the atomic bombing."
In the eastern district of Nakajima-Honmachi, the modern
Motoyasu bridge lined with chandelier type street lights, was
built in the east, coffeehouses and photograph shops were built
in the depth of the lane in the north, a large volume of a
cinema house can be observed in the south, and the streets
became modern composite streets studded with modern urban
structures as mentioned above within themselves (Fig. 10). With
the background of nearly 350 years' tradition, groups of urban
structures intertwined systematically with a complicated alley
composition seems to embody popular vital power of urban
communities rather than the orderly streets of other districts
and their vanishing owing to the bombing weighs on our mind more
strongly.
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(2) Shintenchi |
In 1921,
"Shintenchi," an amusement center, was opened by Shintenchi Co.,
Ltd. Since this neighborhood, situated to the south of
Horikawa-cho along the Saigoku Road, was a samurai's housing
district in the period of castle town and also because of the
presence of some shrines and temples, land use did not seem to
be stable following the Meiji Restoration. There, an adventurous
show proprietor, probably through invitation of capital and
experts from Osaka, deployed a great undertaking. For this
rectangular plot, extending approximately 220 meters from east
to west and about 150 meters from south to north, new alleys
were drawn up and a flourishing space containing a Kabuki
theater and two cinema houses was designed (Fig. 11).
In the first place, the castle town of Hiroshima in the Aki clan
had no playhouses or gay quarters to our surprise, different
from other castle towns. On the Island of Miyajima across the
sea, there was Itsukushima shrine thronged with visitors and gay
quarters for the plaisure of adult visitors. Non-routine town
facilities were, so to speak, driven out to the Island of
Miyajima. The castle town of Hiroshima seems to have been made
politically to an austere and upright community in a way. While
it is doubtful whether a town without an urban cultural base is
worthy of the name of an independent town as a matter of fact,
it was probably the policy of the Asano family who ruled the Aki
clan.
After the Meiji Restoration, theaters were built one after
another in the streets of Hiroshima and two gay quarters were
opened, each in east and west, as if there was the lifting of a
ban. It was as if the so far lacking cultural transmission organ
was added to the urban organism called Hiroshima and also its
information was written to the gene, thus making Hiroshima a
full- fledged town. On its extension, a large scale amusement
center was established in this district adjacent to the east gay
quarters, thereby making it a comprehensive recreation center
district.
The Kabuki theater "Shintenza" was built in the form of a
traditional Kabuki playhouse and was a large Japanese style
structure. In the frontage, many signboards were put up, thus
creating a gaily facade impression. The two cinema houses,
"Taihei-kan" and "Nisshin-kan," had their walls of large wooden
structures, considered to be balloon frames, decorated with
ornament based on the Secession style in fashion in those days
(Fig. 13). The exterior of these structures must have been
filled with obviously complicated decorations, giving a loud
impression, though the coloration is not known. The interior
halls were used for multi-purposes such as showing motion
pictures and were provided with stages of the size sufficient
for a vaudeville performance and a gallery with a second floor
section.
These groups of theaters were located cleverly with the addition
of squares where outdoor events could be held so as to disperse
them rationally. It is an intentional arrangement which may well
be called an urban space design but who designed it is not
known. The presentation, in which one, entering a small alley,
sees the expanse of an open space in the depth, with facades of
large theater buildings filled with signboards appearing one by
one, was a gift of the asymmetrical design peculiar to Japan
known by the Tantric Buddhist temple on the halfway of a
mountain and also by a landscape garden in the go-round style.
Between large structures, wooden buildings of the tenement house
style were placed, wrapping the streets in simple Western
decoration. There, new kinds of shops such as coffeehouses and
photograph shops lined the street attracting people's attention.
For the construction of theaters, particularly the Western style
cinema houses which exhibit a certain design level, it is
probable that the architects, who received education in modern
architecture, were involved but it is not known who designed
these buildings. Since the whole area of Shintenchi seems to
have been modeled after the amusement quarters of the
Sennichi-mae district in the southern Osaka, it is probable that
the architects, engineers and other professionals from the
Kyoto-Osaka area took part in the work.
As most of these buildings were wooden structures and the
district was situated approximately 700 to 900 meters from the
blast center, these buildings are considered to have been burnt
out completely. In the postwar rehabilitation program,
construction of a trunk road (present Central Road) running
through this district from south to north was projected and
implemented. Regrettably, the atmosphere of entertainment
culture of the theater district was to be wiped out once again.
Barely, the profile of a square remained as a park but it was
finally turned to a lonely open space of the underground parking
lot. The memory of the theater quarter remains as new cinema
house buildings lacking the former gorgeous facade decorations
which were buried in the groups of buildings housing various
independent restaurants and bars. And the whole area including
the east gay quarters transformed to adults' night entertainment
world. This district generally known as "Nagarekawa" (the name
of which originates in a moat running from north to south in the
Edo period) turned to eating and drinking quarters filled with a
smell of alcohol, quite different from cultural facilities such
as Kabuki play houses.
The change of the theater district to the trunk road in part
under the functionalistic town planning and to nightspots
peculiar to major cities in Japan on the other side is symbolic
and means that the urban space has been bipolarized to
rationality and irrationality.
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3.
Genbaku Dome as a Warning Monument
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In Europe,
there is an institution to preserve the ruins of a battlefield
as a "war memorial" or "warning monument" as exemplified by
"Emperor Wilhelm Memorial Church" in Berlin. Though it is rather
difficult to adapt this kind of monument to the cultural
properties in the sense of the Japanese language, it is treated
in the same way as the protection of cultural properties.
In 1996, Genbaku Dome was registered as "Hiroshima Peace
Memorial(Genbaku Dome)" into the world heritage list of UNESCO
(Fig. 14). It was thought to have significance in the sense of
universal issue and human history as a "negative heritage" same
as the concentration camp of Auschwitz. On this occasion, the
Dome was designated by the States as cultural assets to
represent "historic sites" and it was the first time that a
warning monument of this kind was officially recognized in
Japan. Until then, Genbaku Dome had been a mere monument to the
administration and citizens of Hiroshima and to the general
public having interest in the dome.
To begin with, Genbaku Dome was designed by Jan Letzel, a Czech
architect, who was running business in Japan and was called at
first "Hiroshima Prefectural Commercial Exhibition Museum" and
was lastly known as "Hiroshima Prefectural Industrial Promotion
Hall" after two name changes. Though the building was an
establishment intended for exhibition of commodities produced in
Hiroshima prefecture to help promote the industry of the
prefecture and had a spacious show room where glass showcases
stood side by side, it was also used for exhibitions of works of
art and for other events and was an intimated spot of the
citizens. Most of the city area of Hiroshima then was occupied
by wooden structures of two-stories or less and the novel,
modern building, with a main structure of three stories built
with brick having a penthouse and a dome on the top, was also a
landmark of the city of Hiroshima. Its design was of the
Secession style originating in Vienna and the neobaroque facade
boldly winding fronting on Motoyasu river was an important
element of the beautiful waterfront scenery of the northern edge
of Nakajima including Motoyasu bridge and Aioi bridge (Fig. 15).
A plan was drawn by Letzel's architectural office and the
construction work was undertaken by Mukuda-gumi of Hiroshima
prefecture. It is assumed that the novel design including an
oval dome surprised and embarrassed the local contractors who
took part in the construction work. It is a pity that the
original structural drawings are not in existence and barely a
floor plan, elevation, cross section and perspective view
published in "Kenchikusekai(The Architectural World)" a special
building magazine at that time, remain today. While a
reconstructed and restored CG, etc. have been prepared by
putting together scenic photographs, etc., it is not possible to
make clear how all parts of the complicated roof style was
constructed and the fact is that we still remain in the stage of
assumed reconstruction (Fig. 16) (Note 7).
It is analyzed that an atomic bomb exploded at a point
approximately 160 meters diagonally behind this building at a
height of approximately 580 meters. Therefore, the building was
almost directly under the blast and the degree of destruction
was extremely high. It can be imagined the building was hit by
thermic rays accompanied by a flash and shock waves at first and
then by a blast from the explosion and was subsequently drawn
into a whirlpool forming a mushrooming cloud thereby starting a
fire. While the wooden roof truss and beam beds were completely
destroyed and brick walls were seriously damaged by the blast
and fire, the oval tube-like staircase was of the relatively
stable construction and the section around the staircase and
thicker brick walls of the first floor were able to resist the
total destruction.
On the top of the staircase, there was an oval dome of steel
frame structure and copper roofing, only the steel frame
survived in the fused state in part. This striking scene is said
to have prompted the citizens to call this ruined structure
"Genbaku Dome" sometime in the past. While some insisted that
the ruins which claimed many lives should be removed to vanish
this tragic event from memory, there were also opinions that the
dome should be preserved as a warning to coming generations.
Reflecting also the public opinion at home and abroad, the first
preservation work of the dome was undertaken in 1967 with funds
raised through contributions and the second preservation was
carried out in 1989 (Note 8).
The remains of the brick building has its walls cracked, ready
to crumble and tilted. If left as it is, the building is
considered to collapse sooner or later as a result of exposure
to the weather. In the preservation work, therefore, the steel
frame support and cracks in the brick were reinforced with the
injection of epoxy resin and the danger was eliminated in some
portions. Precisely speaking, it is a monument artificially
mended and fixed as the remains of a building.
In this way, Genbaku Dome has become a subject of various
photographers and a subject matter of painters, with its ghostly
figure has spread in the world as an artistic image. There what
should be called the beauty of the ruins also seems to come into
being. With the landscape style garden established once in Great
Britain in the 18th century, there was a technique by which the
ruins were enjoyed as a folly of the garden. And such German
romantic artists as Caspar David Friedrich left behind paintings
of the ruins of a Gothic church depicting a spiritual image. On
its extension, Genbaku Dome as the symbol of tragedy may be said
to have established a position of eternal icon with its ruinous
beauty.
Contrasting to the ruins of a brick building is giant hackberry
and camphor trees growing by the building in the postwar period
(Fig. 17). The contrast between the manly vital power of the
trees and Genbaku Dome as a symbol of death casts the
significance as a warning to the organism. A hackberry tree has
overgrown to the extent that it may demolish the ruined building
from the ground and a difficult question whether the hackberry
tree, a symbol of regeneration, should be cut down or not is
being discussed by the citizens of Hiroshima. It has developed
into a philosophical and idealistic question that Genbaku Dome
as a symbol of death is a monument founded
on a larger basis called the dignity of life to the end.
In these days when we are heading for the age of ecology, it
puts us a more profound question. Because, to the urban
communities which have acquired the thought of ecology, it is
nothing but human beings that have damaged the earth environment
and there should be not only the mere affection for the
ecosystem of nature but also a monument with which mankind
reflects on the crime human beings committed against the
ecosystem. When the urban organism is taken into account, there
should be a warning against the act of damaging the life of
urban communities and the significance of Genbaku Dome can be
found once again from such a viewpoint. Once there was a time
when a town was formed around a church and a palace located in
the center of the communities like a cell nucleus. Today what
should be located at the center of a city can be the ruins as a
warning monument or a tree as a symbol of life.
Roland Barthes of France and other intellectuals, taking notice
that Tokyo had in its center the ruins of the Edo castle as the
imperial palace covered with green affording the habitat of wild
birds, considered it as a spirit symbolizing the modernized
Japan. The existence of the ruins and forests in the midtown may
be said to suggest the way that the structure of urban space
should be in the age of ecology. In Hiroshima the ruins located
in the center of the city of Hiroshima may be said to bear a
theme of the age of global environment called a warning to the
civilization of the 20th century above a mere relic and historic
remains of the past.
When one imagines a gene of a city, the remains located in the
heart of the city are newly acquired organs and will become a
new genetic code. There, the ruins in the center of the city are
no longer relics of the past but should rather be called an
element which indicates stages of the evolution of a new city.
Recently in Hiroshima, there has been a growing interest in the
non-wooden buildings which suffered relatively small damage from
the bombing because of their location at a longer distance from
the blast center and which have been utilized as they are or
diverted to some other purpose (Note 9). Properly speaking,
these brick or ferro-concrete buildings which are reminders of
and hand down to posterity the bombing should be located
sporadically in the city area and should be made as positive
elements comprising the urban scenery of Hiroshima of the
ecological age. The effect brought by a thing called the atomic
bomb should not be symbolized only by Genbaku Dome located close
to the hypocenter but the scars corresponding to the distance
from the blast center should also be preserved. It is certain
that such structures would obstruct the new urban activities and
that it requires no little burden in terms of man power and
economy to acquire, maintain and manage the ruins and the
surrounding land remaining in the heart of the city and also
that there is a need to show wisdom as to how to obtain a
solution.
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4. Toward the Birth of New Hiroshima
in the 21st century
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In the city planning of Hiroshima in the postwar rehabilitation
period, a theory of functionalism debated and established in
Europe in the first half of the 20th century was applied and a
rational and healthy city was formed as a matter of fact. In
Hiroshima, the atomic bombing was also considered to correspond
to the year zero of the new era and it was determined to aim at
building a city which was to deny the past and to be based on
the completely new spirit. The process toward this aim has
formed today's city with a population of one million. After some
50 years since the atomic air raid, however, Mayor Takashi
Hiraoka of Hiroshima has taken a step forward from the mere
anti-nuclear weapon movement as a warning of death and is about
to transmit the positive eulogy of life from Hiroshima with a
theme of "Human Paean City."
In Hiroshima on the way to rehabilitation, the energy of city
reconstruction was directed at first to the restoration of the
urban structure existed prior to the bombing rather than to a
city illustrated on a clear sheet of paper. In actuality, the
city was given a structural charge while being rehabilitated.
And now, after the lapse of some 50 years since the bombing, it
may well be said that time has come to reappraise once again the
historical accumulation of 400 years since the birth of a castle
town. Further, it may be possible to trace its root back to
Yoshida-cho, a small castle town in the age of civil strife
(Sengoku Jidai) and also to the age of farming and fishing
villages on the Hiroshima delta which was integrated with
nature. This is because there is a need to pay attention to all
virtual genes of a city which have been accumulated historically
in attempting to grasp a city organism. And today, the age of
globalization, Hiroshima is a city of the world, with its name
known to the world more than any other cities in Japan. The city
structure having the ruins in its center may become a model city
of the world of the ecological age and wisdom transmitted from
such a city ought to play a part of global brains comprising
groups of cities linked by internet works. It may be said that
such changes in the meaning are taking place now for Hiroshima.
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(Notes)
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1. Regarding the
process of postwar reconstruction work, refer to "Pictorial
History of Forty Years since Atomic Bombing - Reconstruction of
Hiroshima," Ishimaru, et al, compiled by Seiji Imabori, The
Planning and Coordination Bureau, Municipal Government of
Hiroshima, 1985.
2. Regarding the idea of the evolution of a city and a virtual
gene, the author described this thoughts in the city history of
Berlin, Toshimasa Sugimoto, "Berlin - A City Will Evolve,"
Kodansha, 1993.
3. Regarding the formation of the castle town of Hiroshima,
refer to "Pictorial History of the City of Hiroshima," compiled
by the Archives of the Municipal Government of Hiroshima, 1989.
4. The reconstructed axonometric view of Nakajima-Honmachi
introduced here was prepared by Professor Sugimoto's office at
the Department of Engineering, Hiroshima University. To make it
the size of the original, a further detailed survey is being
made by the Hiroshima Urban Life Study Society.
5. Toshimasa Sugimoto, 'Architectural Study of Gokairo
(Five-story tower),' "Bulletin of the Archives of the Municipal
Government of Hiroshima", vol. 12 (1989), pp. 23-51.
6. Toshimasa Sugimoto, 'The Hiroshima Branch of the Sanjushi
Bank and the Architect Kingo Tatsuno - through a Study of the
Restoration of Building Forms,' "Bulletin of the Archives of the
Municipal Government of Hiroshima", No.19 (1996) pp.23-34,
frontispieces 4-6.
7. Frontispieces of 7th, 8th and 10th issues, Vol. 8 of the
"Architectural World." Toshimasa Sugimoto, 'On Design Concept of
Hiroshima Prefectural Commercial Exhibition Hall (Genbaku
Dome),' in: "Study of Arts" (Hiroshima Society for the Study of
Science of Arts), second issue (1989), pp. 1-14. Toshimasa
Sugimoto, 'Reconstruction of the Roof Shape of Genbaku Dome
(former Hiroshima Prefectural Industrial Promotion Hall) -
Through the Reresentaion Work with CG,' in: "Study Report of the
Chugoku and Kyushu Branches of the Architectural Institute of
Japan", 10th issue (1996), pp.653-656.
8. Regarding Genbaku Dome, refer to "Architectural Witness to
the Atomic Bombing - An Record of the Future," compiled by Naomi
Shono, Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum, 1996, pp. 26-31.
9. ibid.
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<
Credit >
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Fig. 1 "An
Illustrated History of Postwar Hiroshima - Fifty Years of Life
after Atomic Bomb," compiled by the Archives of the Municipal
Government of Hiroshima, 1996.
Fig. 2 "Architectural Witness to the Atomic Bombing - An Record
of the Future," compiled by Naomi Shono, Hiroshima Peace
Memorial Museum, 1996.
Fig. 3 "Pictorial History of the City of Hiroshima," compiled by
the Archives of the Municipal Government of Hiroshima, 1989.
Fig. 4,5,6-2,8-1,8-2,11,14,16,17 Sugimoto's office of Hiroshima
University
Fig. 6-1,9,10,12,13,15 Archives of the Municipal Government of
Hiroshima
Fig. 7 "Hiroshima Traders' purchase Guidebook," 1883.
Fig. 16 Sugimoto's office of Hiroshima University and Chuden
Engineering Consaltants Co., Ltd.
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<Cation of plates>
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Fig. 1 The ruin of the central
district of Hiroshima right after the atomic bombing
Fig. 2 Aerial view of The Peace Memorial Park, designed by Kenzo
Tange
Fig. 3 Illustration of the castle town of Hiroshima in the
middle of the Edo period (a part; the black portion is the
district for citizens)
Fig. 4 Present "Hondori (main street)" (former Saigoku Road)
Fig. 5 Reconstructed model of Nakajima district in the early
years of Showa (part of Nakajima-Honmachi and Tenjinmachi)
Fig. 6-1 Old photograph of street scenes of Nakajima-Honmachi in
the early years of Showa
Fig. 6-2 Reconstructed axonometric view of Nakajima-Honmachi in
the early years of Showa (a dotted line indicates the scheduled
reconstruction limits)
Fig. 7 "Gokairo (five-story tower)," ("Hiroshima Traders'
purchase Guidebook," 1883, p 69)
Fig. 8-1 Reconstructed elevation of the "Hiroshima Branch of the
Sanjushi Bank)
Fig. 8-2 Reconstructed CG of the interior of the "Hiroshima
Branch of the Sanjushi Bank)
Fig. 9 Old photograph of the exterior of "Taishoya Drapers Shop"
Fig. 10 Old photograph of a distant view of Nakajima-Honmachi in
the early years of Showa (a part of Motoyasu bridge and the east
part of Nakajima-Honmachi)
Fig. 11 Reconstructed axonometric view of Shintenchi district (a
dotted line indicates the scheduled reconstruction limits of
model)
Fig. 12 Old photograph of street scenes of Shintenchi district
("Shintenza" and "Taihei-kan")
Fig. 13 Old photograph of street scenes of Shintenchi district
("Nisshin-kan" and a square)
Fig. 14 Present state of Genbaku Dome
Fig. 15 Old photograph of "Hiroshima Prefectural Industrial
Promotion Hall"
Fig. 16 Reconstructed view with CG of "Hiroshima Prefectural
Industrial Promotion Hall"
Fig. 17 Hackberry grown in the rear of Genbaku Dome
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